Curaçao is a fantasyland for beach bums. Even if those layabouts keep their toes in the sand for only 10 days – like us. Turquoise waters packed with tropical fish sparkle at nearly 40 beaches, making the easygoing island a haven for snorkelers, divers and coastal enthusiasts of all types.
But that’s not all it is.
The 40-mile-long, 7-mile-wide country is a warm and friendly stew of different cultures, said to be the result of more than 50 nationalities. Curaçao (pronounced “kur·uh·sau”) has been Spanish, British and Dutch. It lies just 40 miles from Venezuela, giving the isle proximity to South America, its languages and ways.
Curaçao was a hub for the transatlantic slave trade. Most enslaved individuals were transported to other places, as a fine museum in the capital explains, but many were left to work the plantations and salt mines. In the 1600s, Jewish refugees settled in Curaçao to escape the Spanish and Portuguese Inquisitions. Starting in 1915, one of the world’s largest oil refineries (in operation until 2019) drew more foreigners.
We encountered this mélange from our very first day.
Good Eats
Tirzah Statia, a passionate storyteller with immense love for Curaçao and extensive knowledge of the island, met us at the airport. Her sparkling personality was immediately apparent as she directed us to her car to begin a two-day guided introduction.
When we asked Tirzah for a spot with authentic cooking, she steered us to Plasa Bieu, the open-air old market. We chowed down on traditional stews and the customary plate of fish, rice, plantains and tutu (a cornmeal/bean mix). Then she led us to buy papaya from stands at Los Barquitos, the floating market.
A fast friendship took hold as we toured the island. The three of us chose fish to be cooked at De Visserij Piscadera; tucked into grilled meats from truki pan (food trucks); sipped Blue Curaçao, a liqueur made from the dried peel of the laraha orange; shared small plates at Fish and Joy Bistro; dug into Southern-accented meals at Kome, a fusion restaurant from chef-owners Susan and David McHugh of Tennessee; and nibbled the ubiquitous Dutch bitterballen (fried meatballs) and stroopwafel (caramel-filled waffle cookies).
Although it’s now independent of the Netherlands, Curaçao is still very Dutch: note the bitterballen andstroopwafel, its currency – the Netherlands Antillean guilder, and one of its official languages, Dutch. The local tongue is Papiamento, but most residents speak several languages, including English.
Vibrant Energy
Other things to know: Curaçao is outside the hurricane belt and receives scant rainfall, so its interior looks like a cactus-dotted desert. It’s free of poisonous snakes, alligators and large predators. Bonus tidbit: An outsized number of Major League Baseball players hail from this speck on the map.
In addition to the shimmering sea and underwater life in a rainbow of hues, there’s wild color everywhere. It's easy to get hooked on the hip street murals, from funky portraits to political critiques, and bright canvases and sculptures around town.
We were entranced by the postcard-perfect, sherbet-colored colonial buildings at Handelskade, the merchant’s wharf in Willemstad, Curaçao’s capital and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Colorful Capital
By foot, car and tuk-tuk, we explored lively Willemstad.
The narrow alleys and winding streets of Punda, the capital’s old town, were deftly navigated by Stanley of CurTukTuk, a talented driver of the motorized vehicle on three wheels. We learned about authentic arts and crafts, including voluptuous dolls called Chichi - the folksy depiction of a big sister. The idea of a cheerfully wise woman as the glue that holds together the family – and society – comports with the Curaçaoan concept of a dushi, or tranquil and happy, life.
Dushi means “sweet” or “nice.” It can work as an adjective or noun to describe a delish meal, a contented feeling or a wonderful person (akin to dubbing someone “sweetheart”). The term was in constant use in Curaçao, functioning as its motto. Tourists posed in front of a giant sign with the word near the cruise ship docks.
Willemstad holds the oldest continually run Jewish temple in the Americas, built in 1732. Although the membership of Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue is diminished, the pastel yellow, neoclassical building (modeled on the Portuguese Synagogue in Amsterdam) is still a functioning house of worship.
Even more stirring than its stained-glass windows, copper chandeliers, mahogany furniture, and silver and brass ornaments are its unique sand floors. Next door, we were enlightened by the Jewish Cultural Historical Museum, which tells the story of the community from the arrival of the first Jew in 1634.
We walked the scenic Queen Emma Bridge over St. Anna Bay to the other side of the city, called Otrobanda, where we watched the dramatic arch open and close to allow ships to pass. (It’s the only floating pedestrian pontoon bridge in the world.)
Beach Hopping
After bidding a sad goodbye to Tirzah, we rented a car. It can take less than two hours to traverse Curaçao. But not when you bring a mask and snorkel!
Yup, we went beach hopping. We choose to visit local hangouts, including Porto Mari and Cas Abao, peaceful inlets with shady palapas (open-sided huts with thatched roofs); Playa Lagun, situated between surf-pounded cliffs; Kleine Knip, a serene escape with powdery beaches and turquoise water; Grote Knip, which is extra scenic; Playa Piskadó, a fishing spot known for sea turtles; and Playa Forti, where you can watch fearless cliff jumpers.
Klein Curaçao, or “Little Curaçao,” an uninhabited coral islet with an 1850s lighthouse and a few fishermen’s huts, is eight miles off the coast of Curaçao. You can book a day cruise to play Robinson Crusoe.
All over the world, coral reefs are suffering from bleaching due to warming oceans brought on by climate change. It’s an eerie sight for those of us who adore aquatic adventures. But the diverse marine life here is still vivid and abundant, and the cerulean water is a delight.
National Parks
Afterward, we headed to the two national parks, Christoffel Park and Shete Boka Park.
The largest, Christoffel, is a nature reserve that can be traveled by car or foot. Its namesake mountain soars over Curaçao at 1,239 feet, providing breathtaking sights for those who climb it. Multiple trails present opportunities to see plants, animals and birds, such as wild orchids, white-tailed deer and barn owls.
Shete Boka National Park’s volcanic landscape extends about six miles along a rocky coast. Trails through the limestone bluffs took us to a platform above inlets where the sea batters the rocks. We were most impressed by Boka Pistol, where crashing waves shot up to 40 feet high.
Where We Stayed
Our accommodations were decidedly cushy: Sandals Royal Curaçao (see “Exclusive All-inclusive” below), one of the newest locations of the upscale Caribbean chain, and Coral Estate Luxury Resort, the centerpiece of a gated community with magnificent homes.
At Coral Estate’s hotel, we occupied a lovely room with an ocean view as well as a fully stocked kitchenette and a large, well-equipped patio just steps from a VIP plunge pool.
For a sunset dinner at Karacter, its beach lounge and restaurant, we savored first courses of seafood sausage and nut-crusted wahoo; main courses of risotto bouillabaisse and Argentinean tenderloin; and desserts of crème brûlée and cheesecake. Service was excellent there and at Bread & More, where we inhaled fresh croissants and pastries for breakfast while sandwiches, salads, soup and pizza were available throughout the day.
Like most everything in Curaçao, the experience was – gotta say it – dushi.
Sandals: The Exclusive All-inclusive
A saxophonist, his white pants rolled up to reveal bare feet, strolled along the coastline at the exact spot where water laps against sand. Channeling Kenny G. and John Coltrane, he blew smooth, rich, powerful notes that drifted over the beach.
Our first day at Sandals Royal Curaçao, and already it was the stay of a lifetime.
Sandals Resorts operates 18 luxe properties, restricted to adult couples, in the Caribbean. Everything, and that really means everything, is included – among other high-ticket items, alcoholic beverages and unlimited water sports, such as scuba diving, snorkeling, Hobie Cat sailing, paddleboarding and kayaking.
The Curaçao operation stretches across 44 acres and boasts 13 bars (including swim-up and overwater), eight restaurants, three food trucks, and several enormous pools, highlighted by a two-level infinity with glass walls. There's entertainment day and night and a multitude of efficient, affable staff. Guests have access to the Red Lane Spa and the adjacent Pete Dye-designed 18-hole golf course.
We were assigned a lavish Rondoval Suite, which marries modern design with Caribbean soul. One of several circular villas, it features a 20-foot conical ceiling, a spa-style bathroom, a breakfast nook with minibar, a living room area and a private plunge pool.
Our suite was stocked with bottles of premium liquor, wine and beer, and we were granted the services of a butler. Not used to having staff at our beck and call, we were at first disconcerted, almost embarrassed. But it's funny how quickly you can get comfortable with paradise.
Our notes on just one day of livin' the dream afford a glimpse of the awesomeness of this setup:
- Morning - Breakfast brought to room by butler; B climbs aboard a two-tank scuba diving trip while D uses private pool at house.
- Early afternoon - Butler drives D to seaside section with three food trucks (Asian fusion, local cuisine, Spanish tapas), where she meets B for lunch; D and B work out in fitness center before heading to beach, where butler has set up chairs, towels and a cooler filled with refreshments.
- Late afternoon - D and B play organized game of pool volleyball; visit a few beach bars for boozy sips; meander back to suite to change for dinner, where butler has delivered platter of shrimp.
- Evening – Butler drives D and B to sushi restaurant Gatsu Gatsu; duck into Kanaal Café and Wine Bar for dessert of cheese and pastries; pause to play shuffleboard and ping-pong on way to lobby lounge to dance to music of trio; continue to outdoor show.
- Late night – Midnight snack at Pietra, where salad bar includes cold mussels and clams plus pizza is fresh out of the oven; moonlight stroll back to Rondoval suite.
D and B could get used to this.
– Debra Simon and Brack Johnson
