We are not cruise people.
The average ship holds 3,000 passengers; the largest, almost 8,000. With many lines, on-ship days may incorporate ho-hum eats, second-rate shows and jockeying for seats. Off-ship days may find a barrage of rambunctious Americans descending on overwhelmed destinations.
But, hey, to each her own.
Rather than sink into that experience of mass tourism, we upgraded to Viking for an off-season Mediterranean passage. Dubbed the “thinking person’s cruise line,” Viking blew it out of the water.
Extraordinary food. Professional lectures. Extensive libraries. First-class entertainment. Sophisticated Scandinavian décor. A tranquil vacation from kids.
We didn’t feel nickeled and dimed. Wine and beer freely gushed during meals; coffee drinks were free all day. There was no charge for specialized dining.
Many complimentary amenities, such as WiFi, self-service laundry and 24-hour room service, were offered. At least one tour at each port and shuttles to town were included.
For fear of going overboard, we loved it. What’s not to love? With only about 900 passengers, Viking treated all of us like royalty for 10 days as we adventured from Athens to Venice.
The helpful, friendly staff had an all-hands-on-deck attitude; ask any of them for anything and we’d most probably get it. We never had to strategize to go first or get things accomplished. Fellow passengers happily interacted, but one also could chill solo in hidden-away spots.
Titled “Empires of the Mediterranean,” our sojourn took place on the two-year-old Viking Saturn, which fits top-tier amenities into a relatively small footprint. Still, the ship felt spacious. For example, every cabin comes with a floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door opening to a private veranda.
From stem to stern, the Viking Saturn was somehow posh yet unpretentious. Call it romantic. Like the rest of the ship, our stateroom was immaculate and cleaned multiple times a day.
With resident historians for discussions, more time in port and superior outings, the Viking travel concept is to take a deep dive into each destination. This journey to five countries featured eight guided excursions at no charge.
Dazzling harbors along the Adriatic and Aegean seas included Olympia and Corfu, Greece; Kotor, Montenegro; Dubrovnik and Zadar, Croatia; and Koper, Slovenia.
Here's a closer look:
Days 1-3
Athens, Greece
One of the world’s oldest cities, Athens is a repository of ancient history and architecture. It’s where temples were built to Greek gods; philosophers Plato and Aristotle plied their trade; and democracy was born.
“Panoramic Athens & Archaeological Museum,” an included excursion, explored the Plaka District at the base of the Acropolis and the Kanellopoulos Museum, where more than 4,000 objects are exhibited.
We were fortunate to be on board – but still in Athens harbor - for New Year’s Eve. From Kool and the Gang to Bruno Mars, the Saturn’s eight-piece band and singers put on a roaring party. We danced the night away to bring in the new year.
During the countdown to midnight, we slipped outside on Deck 8 just in time to hear horns blasting from ships and see fireworks illuminating the sky around the city.
At the lavish holiday brunch the next day, we delighted in a smorgasbord of delicacies such as caviar with blinis, carving station meats, lobster, and French and Italian pastries, all washed down with champagne.
Day 4
Olymipia, Greece
Viking excursions offer a range of choices: hiking and biking, boating on scenic waterways, browsing markets, farms and eateries; seeing national parks, estates and historical sites.
We appreciated luxury buses staffed with local guides who provided knowledgeable answers and gave spot-on recommendations that didn’t steer us to pre-selected shops.
For today, we chose the excursion titled “Ancient Olympia.” From the pretty port of Katakolo, we drove through the Peloponnese Peninsula’s olive groves, vineyards and orchids to the birthplace of the Olympic Games.
The well-preserved ruins and museum brought to mind the ancient Games, which were held here every four years throughout classical antiquity.
On board for dinner, we feasted at The World Café, a sumptuous buffet with international dishes changed daily, including a variety of meats and seafood, such as crab legs, prawns, scallops, oysters and sushi. Seemingly endless soups, salads, pizzas and desserts were available as were tasty vegetarian options.
Our favorites were the entrees prepared by a chef de cuisine with expertise in Asian dishes. Highlights included Poached Sliced Beef in Hot Chili Oil and Beijing Soy Pork Noodles. Even better, he produced custom combos based on the diner’s individual preferences. (See “Kitchen Cruisin’,” June 2025)
Day 5
Corfu, Greece
The Ionian island of Corfu is replete with public squares and charming streets that wind through its Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rich in history, Corfu is a crossroads of cultures known for alluring beaches, epic views, Byzantine churches and the remains of Venetian and Greek temples.
Here, we took a driving and walking tour. The magnificent island was filled with old-world charm, warm smiles and natural beauty. Upon returning to our ship, attendants handed out fresh washcloths, and already we felt as if we were home.
We dined luxuriously at the ship’s upscale Italian restaurant, Manfredi’s. First courses included asparagus and polenta topped with Parmigiano Reggiano and poached egg as well as fritto misto – lightly fried seafood. Entrees included braised veal shank with saffron risotto and lemon gremolata as well as seared sea bass with cherry tomatoes, black olives, potatoes and anchovies.
Day 6
Kotor, Montenegro
The Mediterranean port of Kotor, the country’s capital, is steeped in dramatic history and powerful scenery, including limestone cliffs. The city boasts one of the Adriatic’s best-preserved Old Towns, ringed with walled Venetian fortifications built in 1420.
Our excursion was called “Highlights of Montenegro,” and we strolled the medieval lanes of the UNESCO World Heritage Site to view historic monuments, such as the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, built in 1166.
We made it back to the ship in time to partake of high tea in the Wintergarden Lounge. As a classical musician played, we were presented with a three-tiered stand filled with finger sandwiches, petite pastries, and warm scones with jam and cream.
Day 7
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik was called “heaven on earth.”
On board, there was always something or, happily, nothing to do.
The playwright George Bernard Shaw, visiting in 1929, said, "If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik.” And HBO’s “Game of Thrones” was filmed here. Nuff said.
OK, we’ll say more. We took the “Dubrovnik Walking Tour,” which covered the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s 12th century medieval streets and stone houses surrounded by a walled fortification. The wonderfully preserved buildings include the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery and Apothecary, housing the world’s oldest working pharmacy, which was founded in 1317.
Back on ship, we took in a lecture about our next destination, watched a film, worked out in the gym, relaxed into the evening’s entertainment, and capped the night with drinks and dancing.
Day 8
Zadar, Croatia
Zadar, the capital of independent Dalmatia for more than a millennium, is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia. Abundant in cultural heritage, the Adriatic port is filled with cobblestone streets and a seafront promenade where acoustic tubes hidden beneath marble steps warble a duet with the waves.
Our excursion took us to Krka National Park, where we saw awesome waterfalls, including the famed Skradinski Buk falls, a collection of 17 chutes as high as 148 feet.
Back on board for dinner, we were excited to experience The Chef’s Table, an elegant restaurant presenting a multicourse tasting menu or a la carte choices. After an amuse bouche of chilled king crab, delectable dishes included spicy tuna tataki, lobster and chicken shu mai, Peking duck, beef tenderloin with four warm spices, and a decadent trio of desserts.
Waterfalls in the national park are as high as 148 feet.
Day 9
Koper, Slovenia
Koper, along the coast of the Adriatic Sea and bordering Italy, contains striking architecture that harkens back to its period as a capital city under the Venetian Republic.
This legacy includes the 15th-century Praetorian Palace and Loggia in Venetian Gothic style as well as the 12th-century Cathedral of the Assumption with a bell cast in 1333. The cathedral’s upper terrace is periodically opened and offers grand views of the Gulf of Trieste.
During our excursion, “Slovenian Coast and Farmer’s Market,” we stopped by one of the picturesque nearby towns to sample its local culinary products and clap along with a fun one-man band and his dog.
Koper stretches along the Adriatic Sea and borders Italy.
Upon returning to the ship, we indulged in massages at the Nordic Spa. Following, in the Scandinavian tradition, we alternated between the sauna and the artificial snow grotto. Why did we wait until the last day to sign up for this!?!
The spa and its snow grotto.
Views are spectacular from the Explorer’s Lounge.
Day 10
Venice, Italy
All too soon, the cruise was coming to an end. Its last stop was Chioggia, a fishing community of 50,000 that’s 16 miles from Venice. Reluctantly, we packed our suitcases and left them outside our stateroom for pickup.
Even going home was done in Viking’s high style. First, we were whisked to the Venice airport. Then, as we deplaned in Heathrow, we were met by a Viking representative who shepherded us to the connecting flight home.
And, so, after 10 days, we were like Harry and Meghan – no longer royalty. But we’ll always have the snow grotto.
*Photos courtesy Viking or Brack Johnson